Adventures in Old Delhi



Side Street in Old Delhi

Yesterday Hilary and I travelled to Old Delhi with our friend (and honorary guide) Azeem to see all of the craziness firsthand. It didn't disappoint. Being in Delhi for two months now, I thought that I had gotten used to the bustling crowds and packed streets. Being in Delhi for two years wouldn't have prepared us for this. People, cars, and autos were packed in so tightly it felt nearly impossible to move. We had to dart in an out of cars just to keep moving along.

It was interesting that we didn't see nearly as many white people as we were led to believe we would. It may also have contributed to Azeem being stopped by a policeman and asked what he was doing with us haha. After explaining that he wasn't our guide and, indeed our friend, we were warned against pickpockets and sent on our way.

We walked to Azeem's home after wandering through the markets. Hanging out on the rooftop was one of my favorite parts of the day by far. All of the children flying kites on their roofs stopped to watch us. Some yelled out "Kashmiri, Kashmiri" which we learned was because our pale skin is somewhat akin to those from the Indian state of Kashmir. They were sweet though and asked us our names. I yelled out my name to a small boy who asked and then asked him for his. He giggled and ran back inside his house. Eventually he came back out and yelled out his name. He couldn't have been more than three or four and was completely adorable.




After that we headed to Azeem's favorite restaurant for butter chicken. Neither Hilary or I had ever heard of butter chicken so we were excited to try it. It was a bit of a wait, but was SO WORTH IT. I don't think I've ever had something as buttery and creamy or as unhealthy, but it was so beyond delicious. The naan was so thick and soft. The chicken was the most decadent food I've eaten since coming to India.

The day was so much fun and we plan to return (especially to do some shopping with Azeem's aunts!) for more adventures.

P.S. Hilary also high-fived a random white person we saw on a dare. The woman just laughed and high-fived her... and I lost Rs. 200.

Exploring Hauz Khas Village

This past weekend Hilary, Anna, and I explored Hauz Khas Village. It was so much fun and was definitely the hippest place I've seen in Delhi yet. It had so many cool antique stores filled with vintage trinkets and old film posters. There was also plenty of high-end stores, offering lux clothing and gifts.

Hauz Khas Village

We decided to try some "New York" style pizza. Hilary and I wanted to see if it was actually NY style or if it was India's version of NY style (which has been the case for most "American" food we've tried). Our verdict: It was actually fairly close to pizza you'd get in the States, not quite NY, but good. We then hopped over to the Elf Café (I think that's the name) for dessert and drinks. The lounge was gorgeous and we had a blast.
















While we were exploring HKV we came across this incredibly creepy hallway. Bright pink with fangs! Hilary and Anna's friend Azeem were the bravest and went first. Once Anna, her friend Adrian, and I saw that they came out alive we went in next.

Turns out it's an amazing art gallery!! It was full of incredible urban art with a small cafe and amazing view! From the backside of the building is a phenomenal view of Deer Park. The warm weather brought everyone out to enjoy the scenery. After we checked out the gallery we made our way down to take it all in as well.

The art exhibit was definitely the coolest find of the day and apparently a hidden treasure as some native Delhi-ites(?) hadn't even heard of it. We hope to go back soon to see if they change out pieces. It's definitely a must-see for anyone discovering HKV...if you can find it, that is.



Some of the amazing pieces at Social Space Art Gallery!!

A Weekend In Amritsar

The weekend before last Hilary and I headed to Amritsar to visit the Golden Temple. We traveled by train (about 6 or 7 hours!) with Mr. Jolly, Mr. Malik, and Mr. Jolly's daughter. As we traveled north the temperature slowly started to drop. We reached Amritsar in the afternoon and headed to the club we were staying at to drop off our things. That evening we headed to the Indian-Pakistani border to watch the changing of the guards. It was incredible. I expected it to be a tense, serious event, but it was the complete opposite. People were dancing and laughing. Patriotic music was blaring over the speakers. Soon the actual changing began and it was incredible. The guards wear these extravagant hats and perform their rituals with flair haha.



The Changing of the Guards
 (Excuse the lamppost, couldn't be helped.)

The next day we went to the Golden Temple. It was one of the most beautiful sites I've seen since being in India and definitely the cleanest. After we walked through water (mandatory, to clean our feet) and covered our heads (again, mandatory to show respect) we saw it! It was absolutely gorgeous, shining in the middle of the Pool of Nectar. We waited in line for nearly an hour, but it was worth it. The inside of the Temple is extraordinary. The design is so ornate and it was evident what a spiritual experience it was for everybody there.




The Golden Temple

Mr. Jolly's daughter explained to us that at the Golden Temple, the richest of the rich and the poorest of the poor all volunteer alongside each other to care for the Temple. A meal is also cooked fresh every single day for anyone who wants it. It's supposed to be some of the best food in Amritsar and it's all free of charge.

It was such an amazing experience seeing the Temple and all the people who traveled to see it. 
 

Spending Time with the Widows in Vrindavan

Widows of Radha Kund

Yesterday we headed to Maitri's home for abandoned widows in Radha Kund. It was about a four hour drive from Delhi and well worth it. As we drove closer to the home, we could see some of the city's widows begging alongside the streets. It was heartbreaking and I could already see why Maitri works so hard to help these women. Eventually we came to the home and were greeted by the women singing devotional hymns. Most of the women spoke only Bengali, but it certainly didn't stop them from talking to us! Some of them showed us where they slept and where they kept their belongings. A few had some really beautiful religious keepsakes or posters of Krishna hanging near their beds. After speaking with them for a little while we helped serve them lunch, handing out a banana to each woman. The women are provided a mid-day meal each day and fruit three times per week through Maitri. Without Maitri's assistance, most of these women would be left to beg and starve. I was such a small part of the day, but I felt so privileged to be able to even hand out lunch.

Gen. Bhopinder Singh and U.S. Ambassador Catherine Russell

While we were at Radha Kund, we were also able to meet U.S Ambassador-at-Large for Global Women's Issues, Cathy Russell! She came to learn more about the plight of widows in India and spoke with the General about what Maitri is doing to help alleviate some of their suffering. It was such an honor to meet her and something I won't be forgetting!

Future Home of Maitri's Home for Abandoned Widows

Shortly after we left Radha Kund we arrived at the building site for Maitri's new home for abandoned widows. The structure will be able to house 100 widows and is hoped to be finished around the 20th of March! This home will go a long way in providing better care and shelter for the widows of Vrindavan.

Also, there were monkeys, puppies, and piglets everywhere. I loved it.

Our First Week

Namaste!

It's only our (Hilary and Bryn) first week day here at Maitri, but the whirlwind has already begun. The excitement for what was to come really started to build on the walk from our apartment to Maitri's office. In just a short walk we saw everything from a beautiful, gated apartment complex to the saddening piles of garbage and tent communities in the slums. We saw young women in clothes similar to ours and others in brightly colored, traditional Indian garb.  The winter fog blanketed the city, softening the lush greenery that surrounds our apartment compound. So much to see, yet our sight was certainly not the only thing stimulated by Delhi's constant flow of life. Cars and motorcycles zipped past, repeatedly honking their horns to move us out of the way. Near one apartment we smelled someone's delicious breakfast and then, as we turned a corner, smelled the dirt and dust from men working construction. It's a constant flood of sights, sounds, and smells that I've certainly never experienced before and I'm really looking forward to becoming more acclimated to everything.

After weaving our way through the streets we arrived at Maitri. We were met by several of Maitri's employees who extended a warm welcome to us and then quickly began learning more about the organization's projects. Even in this short amount of time it's easy to see (though hard to grasp) the scope of what these people do.  For instance, Project Awaaz focuses on serving the underprivileged migrant workers by educating them on the prevention and transmission of physical ailments like HIV/AIDS, TB, and STIs and also improving access to Citizenship Rights. As I learn more, I'll explain more fully Maitri's initiatives. The magnitude of Maitri's work is slightly intimidating, but the nearly tangible hum of passion within the office walls is incredibly contagious. I know I speak for both Hilary and I when I say that these next few months are going to be life changing.

Leh

Four Heavenly Kings: These gods watch over the four cardinal directions.  They live in the four palaces of the four directions of Mount Meru, in order to preserve and protect the Buddha dharma by taking the form of world protectors.

Yulkhor Sung: white, east, plays guitar, because he rule the realm that lives on melodious music Phah-Skespo: blue, south, his sword presents him as a defender of the faith     
Chanme-Zang: red, west, a stupa in his right hand and a snake in his left
Nathos-Ses: yellow, north, a mongoose in his left hand which pours gems out of its mouth, and a victory banner in his right, causing showers of wealth to fall by shaking it

Wheel of Life: This wheel, held by Yama, represents the realms a soul can be reborn into, the causes of suffering, and the stages of dependent origin.

The realms: human, gods, titans, and ghosts, animals, hell

The causes of suffering: ignorance, greed, hatred

The stages of dependent origin: ignorance, willed action, conditioned consciousness, form and existence, senses, sense-impressions, sensation, craving, attachment, becoming, birth, old age/death

http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/galleries/bhavachakra/

http://www.npr.org/programs/re/geography_heaven/kawakarpo/wheeloflife/slide.html

Om Mani Padme Hum: The oldest mantra of Tibetan Buddhism, the lotus representing human consciousness, and the jewel, as within the conscious, bodhicitta, the awakened mental state, is representative of compassion and the seeking of nirvana. 

This mantra is painted and carved onto rocks and boulders. 

Bring a flashlight, or buy one.

Foreigners under 30 traveling domestically can get 25% off of a Jet Airlines ticket price, but not buying online, like I did.

Empowerment and Economy

The empowerment of women to be able to actively participate in their own economic condition is based in their personal circles: their families, social environments, and surrounding communities.  The community can be extended to the local, national, and global scale.

This means that the actions we wear, our own personal accountability in empowering individuals in our communities, will have an effect on the communities surrounding.

The messages transmitted from one community to another or from one person to another can surround an environment, and allow for the momentum needed to create real change. 

The economic condition of women may be challenging in terms of the social, formal, or conditioned challenges posed:

            The empowerment of women has an impact on economic condition.

As has been shown repeatedly, equality, human rights, and dimensional accountability for rights will serve to promote a more stable, dependable economy.

Financial security, either through independent financial management, or through external means of support, is a vital aspect of empowerment.  This is especially true for women with family dynamics promoting inequity, and women living in communities without adequate financial interdependency, proper informal or formal means of security, or the creative means to achieve greater economic success.

As a vital player in the community, acting as providers, caretakers, shoppers, and social and political leaders, women have the power and equity to communicate standards, both informal and formal.  Similarly, time-based economic vitality, and the opportunities and obstacles provided via the community’s economic condition, allow for the phenomenon of cycles in economic pattern:

Traditions in women’s empowerment allow for the cooperation required of economic heritage, and it is in the best interest of the community to promote creative means in achieving women’s empowerment.  Further, the impact of each community on others allows for the concept of standard to be communicated effectively through social, political, and economic decisions.  The emphasis on women’s rights allows for the message of community accountability in issues of human rights and the economy.