GOA!!!

This past week was spent lounging around on the beautiful sandy beaches of South Goa. Taking a vacation after preparing for Maitri's conference, Hilary and I took full advantage of the fact that we were in paradise. We spent the majority of our days at Bogmalo Beach. It was fairly secluded (at least compared the beaches in North Goa) and couldn't have been prettier. The sand and water were so warm. The water was so clear and bright. It can't get better than that.

On the second day we were there a woman named Leela came over to us, explaining that she just had to come say hello because we were "just so white!" We thought it odd that she would be so surprised by our pale skin because there were quite a few people with white skin on the beach as well. Apparently we are just sooo pale that we still stand out. Awesome. She came back to us a few days later and just couldn't believe that we were still so pale. She told us that she thought we'd have become at least a little darker. She was nice though and we had a nice time talking to her and visiting her shop.



One day we traveled from Vasco to North Goa to meet Anna's family! They were. without a doubt, some of the sweetest, kindest people I've ever met. Anna's grandmother made us a feast for lunch. She made fried fish, masala crusted prawns, boiled prawns, chicken, potatoes, rice, salad, and homemade pickles. It was seriously amazing. We were stuffed.

After lunch we went with Anna's dad, Edward, to explore North Goa. It was an amazing experience. Edward knows so much about Goa and took us all around. We saw Reis Magos Fort (my favorite part), Calangute, Baga beach, and some really beautiful churches. He explained to us the Portuguese influence in Goa and told us a bit about the history of the people.

Overall, it was such an incredible experience. Goa is just absolutely gorgeous and the people there are so warm and friendly. It's such a change from the crazy, loud, fast-paced buzz of Delhi. Everything is slower, quieter, calmer. It's the perfect place for some serious R&R. It's definitely a must see for anyone traveling to India. Safe to say, I didn't want to leave by the end of it. It really is paradise and I'm counting the days until I can go back!!

 

Many Voices, One Movement: Ending Sexual Violence in India

March 20th saw the beginning of Maitri's annual conference to end violence against women in India. It was a two day event filled with amazing experts and speakers on a wide range of issues all relating to violence against women. The keynote address was given by Kathleen Cravero, president of the Oak Foundation. Along with Ms. Cravero, we heard speeches from Tripti Tandon (Lawyers Collective) who spoke about the effects of criminalizing gay sex and Dr. Madhumita Puri (SFCD, Pragya) who shed light on the challenges facing persons with disabilities when trying to establish their sexuality. We also heard from Colleen Kovatch (George Washington University) who spoke about what happens once a survivor of sexual or domestic assault seeks medical attention.

These speakers, along with many other experts, educated the audience on topics including: Communication with Police and Medical Services; Violence against elderly women; Sexuality in persons with disabilities; LGBT experiences in India; Sexual harassment in the workplace; and, Sexual violence in conflict zones.

The event was a major success for Maitri as these issues were promoted on a wide scale to a broad audience. People were educated on areas of sexual violence that aren't always talked about and will be able to bring that awareness to their own lives, careers, and activism.

 

The Opening of Maitri Ghar

On March 19th we traveled to Vrindavan to visit the widows living under Maitri's care once more. It was a particularly special occasion as it was the opening of Maitri's new home for abandoned and destitute widows, Maitri Ghar.

Hilary and I rode an hour ahead of General, Sonal, and Dr. Kristoffersson and were accompanied by a woman named Amrita and her daughter Devika. Devika was the absolute sweetest little girl. Shy at first, she only peeked at us from the front seat. It soon changed and she was sitting in the backseat with us, showing us how she can count in English and spell the names of the weekdays. She made the 3 hour car ride much more enjoyable and none us of could ever stop laughing.

When we reached the home we couldn't believe what we saw! So much work had been done in just over a month. The home had it's floors and doors and was just beautiful! There was a group of widows who sang religious songs and played instruments. They placed strung flowers around our necks and hugged us.


Soon General, Sonal, and Dr. Kristoffersson arrived and the ceremony began. The opening ceremony was amazing to watch and be part of. Prayers were said and we all received bindi on our foreheads. Dr. Kristoffersson cracked open a coconut as part of the ceremonies. The women seemed so happy to have this place to call home and it was really a touching experience.

Shortly after that we headed to Radha Kund to celebrate Holi with the widows there. That was one of my favorite things to experience since we've been here. They were all singing and dancing. They pulled Hilary and I into the circle to dance to the drums and threw flower petals everywhere. Their joy was infectious and I left there with so much more happiness than I could've imagined. The entire day seemed like a celebration and I wouldn't trade that experience for anything.

 

Adventures in Old Delhi



Side Street in Old Delhi

Yesterday Hilary and I travelled to Old Delhi with our friend (and honorary guide) Azeem to see all of the craziness firsthand. It didn't disappoint. Being in Delhi for two months now, I thought that I had gotten used to the bustling crowds and packed streets. Being in Delhi for two years wouldn't have prepared us for this. People, cars, and autos were packed in so tightly it felt nearly impossible to move. We had to dart in an out of cars just to keep moving along.

It was interesting that we didn't see nearly as many white people as we were led to believe we would. It may also have contributed to Azeem being stopped by a policeman and asked what he was doing with us haha. After explaining that he wasn't our guide and, indeed our friend, we were warned against pickpockets and sent on our way.

We walked to Azeem's home after wandering through the markets. Hanging out on the rooftop was one of my favorite parts of the day by far. All of the children flying kites on their roofs stopped to watch us. Some yelled out "Kashmiri, Kashmiri" which we learned was because our pale skin is somewhat akin to those from the Indian state of Kashmir. They were sweet though and asked us our names. I yelled out my name to a small boy who asked and then asked him for his. He giggled and ran back inside his house. Eventually he came back out and yelled out his name. He couldn't have been more than three or four and was completely adorable.




After that we headed to Azeem's favorite restaurant for butter chicken. Neither Hilary or I had ever heard of butter chicken so we were excited to try it. It was a bit of a wait, but was SO WORTH IT. I don't think I've ever had something as buttery and creamy or as unhealthy, but it was so beyond delicious. The naan was so thick and soft. The chicken was the most decadent food I've eaten since coming to India.

The day was so much fun and we plan to return (especially to do some shopping with Azeem's aunts!) for more adventures.

P.S. Hilary also high-fived a random white person we saw on a dare. The woman just laughed and high-fived her... and I lost Rs. 200.

Exploring Hauz Khas Village

This past weekend Hilary, Anna, and I explored Hauz Khas Village. It was so much fun and was definitely the hippest place I've seen in Delhi yet. It had so many cool antique stores filled with vintage trinkets and old film posters. There was also plenty of high-end stores, offering lux clothing and gifts.

Hauz Khas Village

We decided to try some "New York" style pizza. Hilary and I wanted to see if it was actually NY style or if it was India's version of NY style (which has been the case for most "American" food we've tried). Our verdict: It was actually fairly close to pizza you'd get in the States, not quite NY, but good. We then hopped over to the Elf Café (I think that's the name) for dessert and drinks. The lounge was gorgeous and we had a blast.
















While we were exploring HKV we came across this incredibly creepy hallway. Bright pink with fangs! Hilary and Anna's friend Azeem were the bravest and went first. Once Anna, her friend Adrian, and I saw that they came out alive we went in next.

Turns out it's an amazing art gallery!! It was full of incredible urban art with a small cafe and amazing view! From the backside of the building is a phenomenal view of Deer Park. The warm weather brought everyone out to enjoy the scenery. After we checked out the gallery we made our way down to take it all in as well.

The art exhibit was definitely the coolest find of the day and apparently a hidden treasure as some native Delhi-ites(?) hadn't even heard of it. We hope to go back soon to see if they change out pieces. It's definitely a must-see for anyone discovering HKV...if you can find it, that is.



Some of the amazing pieces at Social Space Art Gallery!!

A Weekend In Amritsar

The weekend before last Hilary and I headed to Amritsar to visit the Golden Temple. We traveled by train (about 6 or 7 hours!) with Mr. Jolly, Mr. Malik, and Mr. Jolly's daughter. As we traveled north the temperature slowly started to drop. We reached Amritsar in the afternoon and headed to the club we were staying at to drop off our things. That evening we headed to the Indian-Pakistani border to watch the changing of the guards. It was incredible. I expected it to be a tense, serious event, but it was the complete opposite. People were dancing and laughing. Patriotic music was blaring over the speakers. Soon the actual changing began and it was incredible. The guards wear these extravagant hats and perform their rituals with flair haha.



The Changing of the Guards
 (Excuse the lamppost, couldn't be helped.)

The next day we went to the Golden Temple. It was one of the most beautiful sites I've seen since being in India and definitely the cleanest. After we walked through water (mandatory, to clean our feet) and covered our heads (again, mandatory to show respect) we saw it! It was absolutely gorgeous, shining in the middle of the Pool of Nectar. We waited in line for nearly an hour, but it was worth it. The inside of the Temple is extraordinary. The design is so ornate and it was evident what a spiritual experience it was for everybody there.




The Golden Temple

Mr. Jolly's daughter explained to us that at the Golden Temple, the richest of the rich and the poorest of the poor all volunteer alongside each other to care for the Temple. A meal is also cooked fresh every single day for anyone who wants it. It's supposed to be some of the best food in Amritsar and it's all free of charge.

It was such an amazing experience seeing the Temple and all the people who traveled to see it. 
 

Spending Time with the Widows in Vrindavan

Widows of Radha Kund

Yesterday we headed to Maitri's home for abandoned widows in Radha Kund. It was about a four hour drive from Delhi and well worth it. As we drove closer to the home, we could see some of the city's widows begging alongside the streets. It was heartbreaking and I could already see why Maitri works so hard to help these women. Eventually we came to the home and were greeted by the women singing devotional hymns. Most of the women spoke only Bengali, but it certainly didn't stop them from talking to us! Some of them showed us where they slept and where they kept their belongings. A few had some really beautiful religious keepsakes or posters of Krishna hanging near their beds. After speaking with them for a little while we helped serve them lunch, handing out a banana to each woman. The women are provided a mid-day meal each day and fruit three times per week through Maitri. Without Maitri's assistance, most of these women would be left to beg and starve. I was such a small part of the day, but I felt so privileged to be able to even hand out lunch.

Gen. Bhopinder Singh and U.S. Ambassador Catherine Russell

While we were at Radha Kund, we were also able to meet U.S Ambassador-at-Large for Global Women's Issues, Cathy Russell! She came to learn more about the plight of widows in India and spoke with the General about what Maitri is doing to help alleviate some of their suffering. It was such an honor to meet her and something I won't be forgetting!

Future Home of Maitri's Home for Abandoned Widows

Shortly after we left Radha Kund we arrived at the building site for Maitri's new home for abandoned widows. The structure will be able to house 100 widows and is hoped to be finished around the 20th of March! This home will go a long way in providing better care and shelter for the widows of Vrindavan.

Also, there were monkeys, puppies, and piglets everywhere. I loved it.